...with de flyin' fish, mon! As I walked up the beach after surfing this morning, I kissed him so gently on the rail. I love this new surfboard, the Ricky Carroll fish! I was hesitant at first. The fin set-up was one that I wasn't used to. The side fins were huge and the trailer so small, and on the first wave it was confirmed. There was a slight lack of drive. But, wave after wave came, and after each one, I became aware of how loose the board was, how fast, and how it would fly across the surface like a skipping stone. The lightness of the board only intensified the feeling of freedom. I felt like I could put that thing where ever I wanted, and so... effortlessly. The more I rode it, the more I fell in love. I felt like my surfing was rejuvenated today.
Now I feel like I have the perfect quiver. The 6'10" David Hamilton fun shape will work for those teeny tiny, clean days. The 6'8" Randy French model will be for the biggest days. The 6'1" Firewire will be for the punchy, really good days, and ... the Ricky Carroll 6'0" fish will be for the majority of our waves, which are mainly in the slow, mushy category. But, with this new secret weapon, I will have more fun than ever.
I was the first one out early this morning. Some shredder paddled out after a bit, and we were alone until I heard someone talking inside, and looked to see ANDY! We had some fun today, sharing peaks, hooting at the nice ones. He was on his new fish, too, the Randy French 6'6" wood model, just gorgeous. It was so fun out there, despite a side shore wind. The tide was perfect, going out and practically low. My last wave was the best. It jacked up way outside, Andy saw it, and said GO! I took off, and the thing just rolled all the way to shore. So many cutbacks and off the lips I lost count. I was so high when I hit the beach. I had to go to work, but the crowd had thickened, and I was satisfied. As I walked up the beach, holding that new board, I just couldn't resist. I bent over and kissed it. I don't think I have actually ever kissed a board before. It felt good.
I think it likes me, too.
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