Another fine morning of surfing! I arrived after Bob again, just about 6:15am. He was already in the water, and I could see him riding one as I paddled out. The sunrise was gorgeous, and the golden-yellow moon had just set. We had it all to ourselves for more than an hour. Two shredders paddled out then, but that was okay, we all shared it ... fun, fun, fun.
It seemed, at first, not to be as good as yesterday, a little weaker, a hair smaller. "But, wait," Bob said. Every few minutes a set would arrive that told a different story. One wave I had was the best, even better than the good one I had yesterday. It stayed vertical and open all the way to the inside, and that made the session for me. We all missed the best wave of the day, though. It reared up, green and glassy and perfect, but Bob wasn't ready, and I was over too far. It seemed head high! Arrrrggh! We all moaned. By 8:30am, it started getting a bit crowded. Bob and I looked at each other and knew what the other was thinking. It was over for the day. But, it didn't matter. We caught the best of it, again!
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