It didn't look all that inviting this morning. After two fun days of decent surf, it seemed impossible that we dare think it might still be rideable. But it looked rideable, what the heck, I'm paddling out. The reports are calling for a week of onshores, so this could very well be the last day of clean peelers. I called Andy to tell him I was going to Matanzas. Once on the overlook, I called Karen. She only had 45 minutes to surf, since she had to open the cafe, so she asked me to make the call. I told her it seemed pretty small, and for all the effort it might not be worth it. I wish I could take that back, knowing what I know now, but how could I have known it would get better? It could have been as tiny as it looked from shore.
I paddled out alone. The water is still chilly, and the tiny bits of kelp-like material still linger. But, the waves looked green with the sun shining through them, and they were groomed clean by the light westerly wind. I caught a few weak ones, but they were fun on the 6'10" fun shape. Then, as the tide filled in, it began to get really fun. It was almost like a mini-right point break. They would just peel and peel! I took off on one nice one, and as I stood up I saw someone paddling out, hooting for me at the top of their lungs. This made me laugh and almost fall off, but that only made it more fun. I think his name is Dusty, I'm not sure. I see him sometimes, and we talked about the waves over the past couple days. He was on a fish and began snagging some fun ones. Then, I see someone else paddling out - ANDY! He is on some monster tanker, eleven feet long. Two strokes and he was up. He said he had been riding the thing for the past several days and was having a ball. We shared some more waves, and then that same shredder from Flagler Beach came out and proceeded to tear into some. That guys rips! I couldn't believe he could do so much on so little. It made me want to go get my Firewire, but I felt too lazy today. Also, reality check, I just don't have the biceps.
The waves were really shaped better than ever today, bowling up and reeling down the line. It was such a bonus, yet another day of fun surf, and timed so I could actually be there. The coolest thing happened after it got more crowded. Dusty (?) and I were paddling for the same wave. I was wanted the right, he was looking at the left, but we were on the wrong side of each other. I was not giving up, and neither was he. We both paddled, stood up, and looked to be on a collision course, as I said "Crisscross!" And we did! It felt so good. I was laughing all the way inside. Then Andy and I rode a wave together, high-fiving each other at the end. The tide started filling in a little too much then, the crowd thickened, and it was time to go.
Andy left with me, and we walked back to the parking lot, talking about our upcoming plans, his trip to Costa Rica, and mine to New Zealand.
That is the future, this is now, and it is good!
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