I watched the flags as I decided what to do. I could tell her I needed to get in the water, that I would rather come in to work later. It is an option I have. But, the flags were flapping pretty hard. I took a gamble, and said I would come in to work now. I was taking the chance that the wind would die down, closer to dark, and it paid off.
I scrambled to get the work done, but I wasn't sloppy. I can be efficient, that's for sure. I bet no one could have made all those cupcakes as fast. No movement was wasted. And then it was time. I raced home, threw my board into the car, and raced to Crossovers, always looking at the flags. Some were limp, some were lightly flapping. Good, stay light. I have been so good today.
Karen got it early, when the winds were still light. She tried to downplay it for me, but I knew I had missed some good ones. Bob tried to make it sound like he had missed it, too. I have some great friends.
So, there I was, racing to get up the steps, as two guys were shooting some girl posing on the stairs. They could see I was a fanatic, wild-eyed, and made room for me. Sorry, I said. She was sweet, no problem, she smiled. Then my feet were digging into the sand. That felt so good, that cool, dense sand between my toes. Then I was in the water, paddling out on the 6'1" Firewire I had just traded my 5'10" Firewire for. Would it be the right one?
The first wave felt pretty convincing. The waves had some punch and size, so it was a good testing ground. I caught a few more, and then the left came that would decide it all. I took off on it, a late drop. I wanted to see how it would work on that ledge. Whomp! It flew up so high, and turned so tight ... on a dime. That was when I knew. This is the one. I will keep it.
Now, let's just hope there is something left in the morning. Because I am packing my lunch tonight, and I plan on being there before dawn.
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