Sunday, May 24, 2009

Let's go!


I guess it's because the waves have been so big for the past week that it looked like there was nothing left this morning. It was hard to tell, really. There was no one out at the pier. It did look like there were some sections, so I went on home (I had unloaded another set of boxes at dawn), and grabbed the fish. Back in the parking lot at the pier, there were quite a few guys getting ready to paddle out. I opted for a more solitary session. The set up at high tide at the pier is like the Roman colosseum sometimes, with the fishermen and the crowd sitting along the seawall.

At Eighth street, you could see there were some clean sections, what the heck, it wasn't much, but it was worth getting some exercise. Not to mention getting in the ocean after so long.

The water was still murky, and it felt cold at first. What is going on? This is the end of May, it should be warmer than this. I thought about how many variables there are to surfing as I paddled out. The wind, the water clarity, the weather, the tide, the myriad of buoy reading possibilities ... whoa, this current is strong! How could a five foot at eight second swell feel so powerful? Was it just that I haven't been out surfing in awhile? The waves seemed relentless, and on the first sandbar, I thought I might never make it outside. WHAT is wrong with me? That is when I knew; it was bigger than it looked. A guy took off on a right, and the thing was overhead by a couple feet! Then I didn't feel as wimpy. It was definitely bigger than it had looked from shore. The walls were thick and glassy, and easy to catch. The fish felt instantly fine as fine could be. I almost wished I had the Firewire, but this fish can handle many conditions, of that I am sure. I stayed out until I started shivering. The wind was coming onshore stronger, and the tide started backing out, anyway.

What a great start to the day. Now it's off to the cafe. Gotta make the cupcakes.

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