At the pier at dawn, I could see it might be a good day. the wind was actually offshore, and there was still a swell. It was breaking a bit fat with incoming tide, so I called Andy to see if he had checked Matanzas yet. He was getting ready to go, and I told him I'd give him the report, that I was already at Crescent Beach.
Summerhaven looked glassy and fun. There were some bowly sections to be had. In fact, it looked a little point breakish at the bend in the road. Nice. No one was out. I was surprised, this being Memorial Day and all. Usually, you would look for the most secluded spot you could find on a holiday like this. But, look. The line-up was empty. I called Andy, unsure if it was the right call to go here. I was worried about the wind, and how long it would stay offshore, and when the crowds would start.
I'm paddling out here, I said, and when the crowd hits, I'll go to Eighth street. He was on his way.
Two guys pulled up just then, some teenager and his dad. The kid was so stoked, I could hear him talking non-stop. How cool would that be? To go surfing with your dad...
I remember how I almost talked my dad into surfing with me once. He was always pretty athletic, until he got married and started working full time. I remember seeing the twinkle in his eye, as he thought about it. But, he never did. He will be eighty years old in three days.
Time moves pretty fast, like Ferris Bueller said.
So, I paddle out, and this kid is hooting, seeing the green and glassy surf. He says to me, "Just wait for the set!" I smile, and say, yeah! Soon, dad paddles out, and they are exchanging waves. I catch some fun ones, too, and am stoked that no one is out, yet. But, it is only 7 am.
Turns out, it never did get crowded. Andy and I had so many fun waves today. I saw him get one right, just peeling off in the sun, yes, sunshine! There were waves AND sunshine AND offshore winds until 11am. Andy asked me if I was going for the marathon session around 10 am. "I am not paddling in until the wind comes onshore," I said. "I have waited too long for this."
It was four hours of pure bliss. Well, except when that kid ran over me. He's a beginner, and I could see it coming when he took off in front of me and lost control. Thump, I ducked and heard my board get hit. MY NEW FISH HOLY CRAP! But, when I came up, everything was fine, but the kid was flipping out, "I'M SO SORRY! It was all my fault!" Over and over again, he said this, despite me telling him it's okay, we're fine, it happens. I could feel his anxiety, and tried to calm him and laugh about it. Then it was back to getting more. It really turned on from about 9:30-10:30am. One wave I had Andy said was, "like the cover of a magazine." It was one of the bigger ones, and it just opened up all the way to the inside.
Wow, was I happy today. Well, except that Karen never showed up. She thought I was out back with Bob, and paddled out on the other side. Bob ended up coming over to Summerhaven, so at least I was with two of my best surfing buddies. One day, Karen, we will surf together again!
All day the joy was there with every step. Even as I lugged more boxes up and down stairs, I was smiling, remembering the morning, and all those glassy, green waves...
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