Blue Waves...

Helen spoke with Roche last night and he said Avellanas was really fun yesterday evening, so we decided to head there this morning. The wave models were showing that the swell would be identical to yesterday, so Playa Grande would have to wait. It just cannot handle a big swell.

What a good call that turned out to be! Helen woke me before the sun was even up, and we jumped in the four wheel drive and headed to Avellanas. We met Roche at his house overlooking the break, and walked down the path that led to the break. The walk itself is a trip. Tropical jungle all around, a wide cement path winding through the forest, cool and damp. Then you walk on a boardwalk for a long way. Once the ocean came into view, I knew. This was going to be worth the entire price of my ticket.

There was no one out! The ocean was smooth and the water blue, with waves jacking up and reeling off, about head high, some bigger. Roche pointed to a left that was peeling off and said we should go out there before the crowd hits. We traversed the rocky shore and then it was all soft sand and warm water and empty perfect waves.

Roche was curious about the Firewire, so after a few waves I let him try it. He was riding a 5 10 quad, and did a 360 on his first wave. His board felt super loose, but not much drive, good for a trickster. He said my 6 1 felt like a longboard! But, he said he could tell it worked. I caught a left that had me grinning from ear to ear. The waves were so perfect, some rights were coming through, and it reminded me of Playa Grande, with the sloping, hollowish peaks, and glassy faces, green blue when the sun burst through the partly cloudy blue sky.

It got more crowded as time went on, but if you were in the spot, people let you have it. Most everyone was of only moderate ability, so it was really good and no one was aggressive. One left I had was huge. I saw it after everyone had gotten the first ones that rolled through. Then this one just jacked up and I paddled for it, and it hit the sandbar instantly, and I dropped in so late my heart was in my throat. I pigdogged it all the way as I heard a local hooting as he paddled out in front of me. That made my day. I know he has seen plenty of good waves, and I was figuring this was just another one. There were so many good waves today. Helen said she never caught one, it was just too jacking for her to catch them, but she stayed out and tried at least.

Last night, the river mouth was a surprise! I saw this wave in the middle that no one was even riding and ran back for my board. This was an amazing thing. Everyone was hugging the shore, it was just like at Matanzas at home. Are they just being lazy? I went out there and caught some big ones, A frames all over the place, and overhead! Three other guys eventually paddled out there, but man, that was a brilliant session, so unexpected and fun!