No surprise, but it occurred to me again today how awesome surfing is. I gave two private surfing lessons to people back to back this morning, and at points during both of them, I remembered again why I love surfing so much. Out in the water, sometimes, we seem to shed the weight of the lives that we carry around on land.
The first lesson was to a teacher acquaintance from school. She just turned forty, and she has become very aware of the passing of time. She had confided in me, those last days of school, that she wanted to try surfing. It had been something she always wanted to do, but she had been afraid, or too busy with her kids, her husband, and life. I was just the person she needed at this moment. Because, after all I have been through these past few years, I can and will motivate someone to live their dreams. I am all too aware of time's relentless passage, and the stalling of one's dreams for everyone else's benefit. Big mistake, and for everyone involved, by the way.
But, it is from these mistakes that we learn. If you do nothing, you learn nothing. You stay on your safe little merry-go-round, and then, suddenly, the ride is over.
A life lived safely is not a life well-lived.
I would rather be the dog who lived the harder shorter life, the life outside, that caused its heart to beat fast from fear and triumph, rather than the dog sitting in the air-conditioned room viewing life from a window.
So, as we walked out to the beach, she told me how she had decided she was going to do some things for herself now. I couldn't help but smile, and to tell her that she was brave, that doing something you are afraid to do is the bravest thing of all. You might fall, you might hear people laughing, but you tried. And, there is always the chance that you might succeed, and in the trying, discover something that could change the way you look at everything.
She did great, and her face reflected her absolute success and joy. Near the end, we ended up sharing some personal details, and I apologized that we had taken time out from the lesson just to talk. But, no, she said, she loved it, and you could tell it was a load off her, to share the things she did, and to listen to what I had learned fifteen years past her.
She had always seemed distant, and aloof, when I talked to her at school. Before today, I never really understood her. Now I have a picture of her, and she has one of me. There was a magical connection out there today. It felt so good to make someone happy. And, I feel sure she will be buying herself a surfboard. I think she saw what surfing can do for the psyche, and what it can teach you about life, if you let it.
The second lesson was a faint mirror of the first. A 43-year old former gallery member friend found me on Facebook. He was always a favorite of mine, and not just because he bought more of my paintings than anyone. He's a warm, jovial sort, and is not afraid to laugh at himself, nervous, excited, talks non-stop. I recognize myself in him, sometimes. He, too, caught the spark today, even though he never really got up all the way. It's not so easy teaching the old dogs new tricks, but it can be done. It didn't matter. He was so happy about the experience, and kept telling me. He even paid me extra, despite me telling him he just could not do that! To make people happy, and to get dinero for doing it, is a great thing. Yes, surfing has been very, very good to me.
Tomorrow he wants to surf with Karen and I. Now,if only the waves will some back...
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