
That's my word for today for the surf. It has been one false alarm after another, wave wise. The early morning reports promised something that was not delivered. It seemed like there should have been more to it. Am I spoiled from riding Pacific waves? No. We do get good waves. It's just that today was the beginning of a swell, maybe, and that is always the weakest part. You could see there was a swell. But, every one of them seemed to rise up weakly, and either close out or just disappear, leaving you frustrated and waiting endlessly for something that never really came.
After I dropped Colby and Katie off at the airport, I called the report, and heard that the surf had come up, that it was bigger than this morning. The clouds offshore had formed into a tropical wave, the update said. We have waited to hear those words for months! I raced home, grabbed my board, and headed for low tide Crossovers. I didn't even check it first, just wanted to believe. But, it was just the same. The wind was light onshore, and every one of the slightly bigger sets just crumbled over in a heap. Not what I expected.
I think I'll go ride the bike with the boys.
And, wait for the morning...
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