Matt came with us this morning to Playa Grande. I think he just could not believe that there were really no crowds for the first hour yesterday, and he had to see it for himself.
There it was, at dawn, an empty parking lot again. I ran to the top of the lookout and there were only about three people out in glassy, fun, head high peaks. It looked a little smaller, but then I saw a guy drop into a big peak that was definitely overhead! I scrambled out there, and it was so warm and clean, under mostly cloudy skies. My first wave was so fun! A big walling right appeared that you could carve with your eyes closed, it was that perfect. Today, I could see, was going to be more tubey. I stalled for a few of them today, and some I got into because it just opened up and to make the section you had to pull in. Joy.
The crowd grew, but it was mellow. Louis Wilson (the crazy guy, as Helen calls him), was out. He is the guy that, years and years ago, when I was going out to the rivermouth, instructed me to carry my board horizontally so that no one would see me. That way, he instructed, no one would follow me out there.
Okay.
Today, at sixty five years old, he has mellowed, and talks with Helen in a normal, civilized fashion. For years, you had to watch your step around him. You never knew what might set him off.
The crowd had everything today, young guys, old guys, a couple women, locals, and travelers. If you were in the spot, the wave was yours. From the beach it looked very crowded, but in the water you could get waves easily. One I had was the best wave, possibly, of the trip. It lurched up way outside. I had to scramble fast to get it, and I was already the farthest one out. It started jacking up in a walling bowl that I caught just behind the pitching peak. The drop was awesome, almost freefalling, and then I reconnected at the bottom and the whole thing walled up in a heaving mass. I pulled in and thought I was going to get pitched, but I felt it wrapping around and I came out and even got a couple turns in and my heart felt like it was beatng right out of my chest. There was only one of them, and it felt weird paddling back out afterwards with everyone just sitting there. I had thought it was a set of several waves and I would see everyone riding them as I paddled out. Some guy said something to me as I paddled by, but I didnt really hear or think he was talking to me. He repeated what he said, louder this time.
"That was a really good one!" He said, and I smiled back.
I told him I didnt know where that one came from, but it sure was fun. Then I saw Matt dropping into a beautiful glassy wall reeling off. Nice! Then Helen caught one, and when she paddled back out, she was all smiles. Everyone was having fun today. The pressure was off with the dropping swell. I saw so many unreal waves today!
When we finally went in, tired and hungry, someone was shouting something. A beautiful local girl came running up to me with a card in her hand. She told me she had taken some photos of me! I said thank you, and looked at the card from a local surf shop. She said I could check them out later at the shop. "You are a really good surfer!" she smiled so sweetly. "Thanks," I said, and ran to show Helen and Matt. I might just be able to see if the waves were as good as they seemed!
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