Helen had a tennis match early this morning, so I was on my own. I was the first out at the rivermouth today. It was a little spooky out there, despite it looking smaller than yesterday. The waves looked more makeable, which was good, and less of a threat, which was a relief. I paddled out and around the rip and it took awhile to figure out where to be. Boils were everywhere. Kinda freaky.
I kept seeing this wave breaking off some rocks and decided to check it out. Most of the waves I was catching were closing out at the end with the mid-tide, but this one looked really good. The surprise came with the lefts. The first one was amazing, jacking up and just tapering off, making for some great open sections to go up and smack it! I was so happy, not beleving I was out there all alone for the first hour. Only about four or five people ended up coming out, which was so surprising and lucky for me. The best thing that happened was when one wave came out of nowhere, way out the back, and I saw it coming. I stroked outside as fast as I could, and felt butterflies as I was paddling for it.
It just stood up, and as I looked down the line it was like a dream. It felt like I was back in the Maldives, at Cola´s, and also like Jeffrey´s Bay, just unreal having such a big open wall just begging to be ridden. The Firewire loves juice and this wave had it. It felt like anything was possible, and I took off like a rocket, went to the bottom and jammed back up to the lip again and again and WOW that felt like the best wave I have had since Nicaragua last summer! I was high for 30 minutes afterwards. There was even enough room for a cutback at the end, it just never closed out. There were others that opened up, too, and that board just flew through the sections. I forgot what real surfing is like. Oh, if only we had waves like this at home! Then I got a horrendous leg cramp and had to go in. It had been three hours, the sun was beating down by then, so I paddled on in, holding my calf muscle, but stoked!
It was so much bigger than anything that had come through all morning, like some freak amalgam of Cola´s in the Maldives and Jeffrey´s Bay. It was by far the best wave I have had since this smae time last year in Nicaragua. It jacked up and as I looked down the face, I swear it was like a dream. It was open and glassy and as perfect as any wave I have ever ridden. I dropped in, the Firewire caught it effortlessly, bottom turned, and right off came straight off the top so fast and back down for a repeat and I realized this is what I crave. We never get waves that allow us this simple pleasure! So gutless and weak are
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