Today was the first paddle out since Puerto Rico, and I was dreading the kook I would be. The first two waves I caught would have been eligible for funniest surf takeoffs ever. It was 41 degrees out, water 55, so I kept thinking, yeah, that's it! Add fullsuit, boots, and gloves, and this was only adding to my despair.
But, I am officially stoked again, after I took my third wave. This time, I did not feel like a frog, sticking to random parts of my board involuntarily. I caught a good, fairly decent sized right, and boom! STOKED! The board took off beneath my feet, I felt like I was in the right spot and off I went, cutbacks galore all the way to the inside. I had paddled way out back, seeing some random waves jack up and thought, yeah, the Dominator can pick those up. That third wave had me panting all the way back outside, happy again, grinning ear to ear, realizing how important surfing is to my happiness. Just seal me up in a box and put me on the barbie the day I can no longer paddle out.
The wetsuit kept me warm, and the boots the gloves were not that all that annoying. I never got cold the entire session, and my last wave sealed my joy, the sun shining down all around. All I could think is New Zealand, New Zealand, New Zealand, only three weeks away...
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