On a big south swell the shore break can get huge.
And very dangerous.
But for some, it's source of amusement.
There's a human body in there! That'll break your neck.
This guy was shooting the beautiful scenery shown in the following two pictures...
...but he missed what was behind him!
Little beach goer.
I took a little video for you guys. It was the first time I saw someone surfing the right at the northern end of the beach. I heard stories of very rare epic days where you can ride it halfway across the bay...
Just listen to the ocean breathing.
PS. It's 5.30am of Tuesday morning. A new NNW swell is on the rise. The NW buoys reads 10.5 at 16sec from 351 at 3am and I'm off.
Mmm... I haven't surfed the Bay in a loooong while...
PPS. I'd like to welcome back Maui Ultra Fins as a sponsor of this blog. Their banner is on the right. Email me for info about advertising on this blog.
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