Mini- Shabbat...

We all wanted a repeat performance of yesterday, but alas, this is reality. Your wish will not granted today. Long live Jambi!

But, we had us some fun!

Andy was up again at 5am, pacing. But, we knew there was no hurry. The tide was high about 7am, so it was useless to dawn patrol. I ended up at tenth street by 8:30am, anyway, pacing. Andy had already checked his ramp. I could see a handful of guys out at tenth, with one guy filming nothing from the beach. No one was catching anything. It was an illusion. There were waves, the water was greener, the wind was light offshore, but the bars are chewed up and the lines (six feet at fifteen seconds), would lope up way outside, feather a bit, and then fold over in four closeout sections with a gutless open shoulder that just disappeared.

We all ended up back at the new inlet, Andy, Mark, Bob, Terry, Bob, Brian, and I.

When we got there, it was so nice out, blue skies, light NW winds, mild air temps, just brilliant. I stalled by talking about watching "The Wrestler" last night. Terry said he was friends with Mickey Rourke, that he had actually given him a motorcycle once! Terry knew all about him, all about the face work, the gym he has, and you know it's true, because Terry has lived one crazy life.

We saw a couple waves start to break, so we all paddled out.

It was a little frustrating, there was a swell in the water, but the waves would look like they were going to rifle off like yesterday, but instead would back off. We all did way too much paddling for little reward today. I had three waves that made it all worth it, and that board is getting me more and more stoked every time I ride it.

After Bob and I switched boards, I really knew. I tried paddling his 6'4" and it felt so slow and sluggish. When I caught a wave with it, it just seemed to stand still compared with the Dominator. Bob was flying when we watched him ride it. He had the same first reaction as I had that first day. It feels sketchy until you figure it out. How I wished the waves had broken better today, so I could have put it to the test. As it was, it was beautiful out there, and great to be out there with the guys I love surfing with, but there was just not enough consistency to satisfy. It was a mini-Shabbat, and now it is fading away...

Oh, well...back to work!