
Okay, it is official. THE DOMINATOR IS INSANE! This is, by far, the best board I have ever ridden in my forty years of surfing!
I went out after work today. The pier looked like the best bet, green, semi-glassy, about chest high, sectiony, but breaking hard. I could see one wedge working on the south side, with only one guy near it, a few others scattered down the way. I wanted to see what the board could do in the smaller stuff. Every time I have taken it out, it's been head high or bigger, and I had yet to take it out on a small day. The bouys are still four feet at eleven seconds, but it looked smaller than it's been in awhile.
It just feels so good beneath you as you paddle, as if there is a little motor on it. I caught my first one, a close out, and thought, hmmm, this is how it's going to be. But, my next one was a good left, and the wave sucked up faster than I expected. I just pulled in, and WALLAH! I was in the pocket, and screaming past the closeout. Suddenly, I found myself flying so fast that the board flew off the shoulder and into the air, and I reconnected with it, thinking, did I just get air? I mean, COME ON! I SAW it, the board came out of the water and landed - with me on it! If a geezer like me can get air on this thing, imagine what you could do.
Well, the next few waves were just silly. I thought to myself, these are some amazing antics I am pulling off here. Almost as amazing as when I was checking the waves after work yesterday, and I tripped on the stairs and my keys went flying. This was way cooler. Next thing that happened was, a big set wave reared up, a bottomless right, and I mean bottomless. My heart was actually in my throat on the drop, and I thought I was going to get pummeled. But, the Dominator just sucked into the wall, felt like it was hanging by only its outer fin, and accelerated so fast I was leaning BACK, hanging on for dear life! I just smiled, and laughed at the craziness of how it felt!
I would have NEVER made that wave on my other board. I know it.
I know what I can pull off and what I can't, and that was an near impossible antic. I know it was, because the next thing I knew, there were fifteen Flager college rippers right on my peak! I had to paddle in, it was just insane. I felt so good, I just wanted to keep the feeling. I immediately called Bob, and said, "Get into that shop and buy that 5'10" before it's gone!"
Then I called David, and told him THANKS, for getting me on the best board in the world. Stoked.
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