
I knew it! After riding Andy's brand new placebo, now it is all I can think about.
I didn't even want to go out today when I heard the report say the wind had already turned NNW. That meant Matanzas would be a bit bumpy, and the full moon tide would make that mess bouncy. I was the first one at the overlook, and it actually didn't look that bad. It looked defined and a bit bigger, with just the slightest bump on it. I knew Andy was coming with the new board, so I went out ... and waited.
Sure enough, here he comes, paddling out on that thing, hooting already, with stories about how he had scored it yesterday. Just give it to me, already! I watched him get a bunch, watched him cackling and foaming at the mouth, and waited. I didn't want to just ask to use it. He had just gotten it last night. Give him time, I told myself. After a bit, he brought it over. He was going in to grab a Nutri-Grain bar, so it was mine. As soon as I sat up on it, it felt a slug. All fat, and wide, I was sure it was going to feel like a fish; horizontal surfing and wide cutbacks. But, the first wave told me I was wrong. I didn't try anything funny. I was sure it was going to track, and I would have to nurse it. The next wave was a bigger set wave, it felt overhead, and Mark was paddling out in my sights. I made the almost too late drop, planning to snake around Mark, which I narrowly did, almost clipping his toenails on the way. I ended up in a ton of whitewater, and just stayed with it to test it out. It was incredibly stable, and I just floated and bounced, smiling all the way. Then I caught a left, and tried to push it a little more. It responded nicely, and so I went for a right that opened up. The full concave must be the key, and so I rode it like Andy had said, just like a regular board,and it amazed me by responding like my Firewire, but with more flat out speed. Then Andy reappeared, and I groaned. Noooooo! I did not want to give that placebo back. He let me catch another one, and Mark said he knew, just by watching, that I was hooked.
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