Saturday, November 21, 2009

The Spell is Broken...


Are you happy now, Bob? The weekend has arrived and what happens? ONSHORES! Andy and I were whining at sunrise, moping at our assigned dawn patrol posts. Our luck had to run out sometime. We stared out at a choppy sea, with all the time in the world to surf, and it looked like crap.

But, all hope was not lost. We had our secret weapons! The quads!

Andy said his ramp looked like poop. I gazed out at Crossovers, the tide already filling in. It would have been the best spot of all, if the tide had been low at 8am. We decided to look farther south, and so it began.

We met up at the new wash-through inlet, and Mark joined us. We watched it for awhile, talked about board design, and then said WHAT THE HECK, LET'S PADDLE OUT!

It turned out to be a good call, as with lower expectations we found that we were quickly dropping in a ton of waves and ... smiling. The quads were proving themselves, and how they stick and fly in crazy and marginal conditions. Time after time, I had a lurching wave that, on my other board I know I would have blown, but on the Dominator miraculously pulled off. One left lurched up in a closeout, and I just went for the lip, knowing it was worthless, but the board popped up and over and down, and I my jaw dropped as I tried to comprehend HOW I had pulled it off. On one late drop, I felt sure I was going clam digging on the ocean floor, but boom, it slid and held and I felt confident, and I made it, just unbelievable.

I cannot wait to get this Firewire in a glassy, shoulder high day, in waves with open faces. So far, all I have had are jacking peaks with not much wall. And, I have had a blast. Imagine when it's a really good day...

More to come...

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