Anyone who is not a surfer will just laugh and snicker at such foolishness as my ingratitude for what happened this evening. I mean, here I am, having a wonderful Tofurkey feast with my dearest friends, and I want to cry right into my vegan gravy. All day long the wind was messing up the waves, ruffling their brilliant potential. I rode the bike up A1A gazing out at the waste of swell, marred by that stupid wind. And then, at the moment I absolutely could not go, when I was knee deep in culinary complications that needed my undivided attention, the wind got sneaky. It did what no one predicted. It turned straight offshore. And there we were, happily eating our Thanksgiving feast, when we happened to look at the surf photos from this evening. Green and glassy, with perfect offshore winds. Oh the irony! People are starving in the world, you ungrateful bastard surfers, and all you can think about it how you missed two hours of good waves.
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