That's what Andy and I did yesterday morning. It was the last day of Thanksgiving break, and I hadn't surfed the whole time. It was half a foot. It was offshore. The water was green. We grabbed our longest boards, and said LET'S GO! We paddled out at tenth street for a whole 30 minutes. Andy did have one wave that was worth the paddle out just to see. He stood, relaxed, and cruised across the emerald face of a mini-peeler that sparkled in the sunshine. I had one, just before he arrived, that was worth paddling out for, too. Plus, I got to try out my new Matuse fullsuit. Nice.
No comments:
Post a Comment